Wendels Best Essays

It’s a poorly kept secret among my circle of friends and food pals that I’m hopelessly addicted to the wings at Wendell’s in Norton, Mass. and have been for many years.

Their wings offer an incredible combination of heat and rich, savory flavor. When you get into their upper level wings (there are seven on the menu) the heat is intense, but the flavor is so good you covet the pain.

The presentation is also unique: Wendell’s wings are served packed between a pair of wooden salad bowls. Ask for a double order to really fill up the bowl.

Like all wing joints, sales skyrocket for a big football game. Wendell’s owner Dave Wilke expects to sell about 300 pounds of wings tomorrow for the Patriots-Broncos game. That’s nearly double their normal Sunday in the offseason. They’ll do a heavy business today, too, selling sauce to-go for folks who want to make their own wings at home tomorrow. Wing aficionados travel great distances for the unique taste of the Wendell's wing.

What's the appeal? Well, check out these photos below of some of my favorite Wendell's wings from the past year, and the unique stories behind each batch. Wendell's serves wings only from chickens touched by the hands of the Poultry Gods.

Double order, suicidal, April 14, 2013
Note how the sauce is more like a paste. The chickens used to make these wings enjoyed a diet of organic feed made of hand-threshed Indiana wheat and heirloom New England corn descended from seed planted by Squanto for the Pilgrims in the spring of 1621. It was 47 degrees out and overcast the day I had these wings, with a gentle wind out of the southwest that smelled of bitternut hickory pollen. 

Double order, extra spicy, June 19, 2013
This bowl of wings was erected with the same loving care that the craftsmen of Castillian King Ferdinand used to build the Burgos Cathedral. While waiting for the wings to be done, the fry cook dreamt of buying a Spanish water dog and naming it El Conquistador de Pollo.  

Double order, extra spicy, June 8, 2013
Perhaps the most pristine photo ever captured of the Wendell’s wing untamed in its natural habitat. She's a beauty! Somewhere in the Australian outback, a baby boy child nuzzled his mother’s bosom and cried out in anguish for he so desired to grow up and cross great oceans so he could eat the Wendell’s wing.

Double order, extra spicy, Aug. 12, 2013
The fry cook on this day tenderly dabbled the sauce on each wing with a hog-hair filbert brush stolen from Da Vinci’s tomb by 17th-century French grave robbers upon the order of Pope Clement XIII. The wings tasted as if blessed by the tears of Jesus at the Last Supper.

Double order, suicidal, Sept. 4, 2013
Wendell’s 3:16 – For God so loved the world, that he gave his only begotten chickens, and that whoever eateth them deep fried and bathed in Wendell’s sauce shall not perish, but shall have eternal life.

Double order, suicidal, Jan. 11, 2014
The chili peppers used in this batch of Wendell's suicidal sauce were hand-harvested with loving care by a Mexican day-laborer named Pancho. His prized burro Lefty had just died, so Pancho enlisted the aid of local orphans to help him deliver his chilis to the village marketplace. Then great emperors wept, for there were no more wings left to conquer.

Note: no chickens were harmed in the making of this photo essay. Each chicken willingly gave his life for the cause and would do so again. That’s why they’re heroes.

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